Tofu Mozzarella

Two ingredients carry this and they do opposite things. Tapioca starch gives the stretch — that pull you expect when you lift a slice — while agar gives the set. Get the balance wrong in either direction and you have either soup or rubber.

The cooking is not optional heating. Once the mixture starts to bubble it needs another four to five minutes of constant stirring, because agar only binds after it has properly boiled. Stop early and it will never firm up in the fridge.

Agar strength varies noticeably between brands, so the first batch is partly a calibration. If it sets too soft, tip it back into the pan, whisk in a little more agar dissolved in water, boil again and re-mould. Almost nothing else behaves this forgivingly.